Friday, April 18, 2014

Street Mission Two: Valadares


I wrote this on my return to the south central region of Brazil after a month touring the Amazon and costal states of the North. I was in unfamiliar surroundings as instead of going back to Sao Paulo l stayed for most of my remaining time in Rio de Janeiro. Rio de Janeiro is an internationally recognizable city, just think of the welcoming Jesus on the overlooking mountain and most people say, “Oh Rio”. It is an expansive city that is known for beaches and Carnival, but like any city there is more than just tourism and festivals. I stayed in the Barrio (neighborhood/city) of Campo Grande with the Brothers for about 3 weeks late March and April.

I experienced the first street mission in Rio on March 26 and the weather was comfortable after a short evening rain. It is fall here in the southern hemisphere, but fall here in Rio is not like a brisk late October day in Missouri, it’s in the seventies at night and often likes to rain. I am relatively far from the beach and can only see the hills and mountain surrounding Campo Grande or in English “Big Field”. The mountains and the rain remind me of my first street mission in Governador Valadares in the state of Minas Gerias just north of Sao Paulo. The rain was steady and cool that September night, but that experience set a tone that has carried me through my mission as if to keep me open to the blessings of little things.          

Street Mission 2013 Governador Valadares Brazil

The brother’s house is empty of brothers except for Ronalte, the Formando, and Paulo, a fifty year old son just off the street, because of regularly scheduled “mission week” in which the religious visit other cities requesting their help. I joined in on the first three days of the outbound mission and returned by train to Valadares and tonight will ride along on the street mission. The lack of religious has no effect on workings of this Wednesday night event due to the well-tuned Legos (Lay Associates) and friends of the community.

Henrique and his girlfriend stand in the kitchen as I come down the stairs from the third floor. “Hello, Henrique.”

“Hello my friend.” He speaks in English and reaches his hand out and we half embrace. He speaks English as a number of the young adults do. His girlfriend does not, but smiles and gives me a hug.

“Boa Noite, Sh-anwm,” she pronounces my name a couple more times in different ways and trails off.

Henrique is around six foot tall, very lighted skinned with dark almost curry hair that is perpetually messy. He is the son of Viviane and Mario and his sister is Mariane who is in the Order in the process of becoming a Religious Sister. When Henque speaks it is in a laughing tone with a laid back lilt, and he pronounces English almost perfectly.   

“Are you ready to go?” he smiles with a nod waiting as if I might say no.   

“Great. Boa Noite Ronalte!”

“Boa Noite,” Says Ronalte. I see his soapy hand wave out of the kitchen and then hear the pluck of a big cooking pot in the sink.

We walk into the dinning rom to stairs that lead down to the street. “Tchau Paulo,” I pause and smile. Paulo waves me off dismissively and puffs his cheeks to make a balloon deflating sound. He opens his mouth in a self-satisfying smile to reveal his few reminding teeth. “Good night to you too,” I say, and watch the silver haired man shuffle to his viewing point over the street. The street light silhouettes his buzzed hair, weak jaw, and whiskers, if not for the raspberries and cheek popping he would be about as silent as the man in the moon, with is the though I hold for a moment.

We walk out the gate and Paulo sends us a final Blurrrrp sound from above, but I look up and he is innocently stoic in the moon light.

***

 The sisters’ house is white with two stories and a very imposing gate capped with protective electrical wire. It is a feature on most of the houses in the neighborhood and I would bet it is not on, but I’m not the one curious enough to test it. Two female Formadas open the steel door and we all walk to the back of the house. The chapel building is a converted two car garage, and upstairs is an open air covered roof that serves as the storage area and alternate kitchen for the missions. I walk up the stairs and see they are almost done packing three plastic tubs with individual wrapped Brazilian Hot Dogs. The Brazilian Hot Dogs are called Cachorro Quente, they are made with chopped hot dogs in a tomato sauce on a standard hot dog bun and topped with crushed potato chips. Normally the street mission serves bread and vegetable beef soup, but with most of the sisters and brothers out of town, tonight is different. There is another mission on Wednesday mornings where the religious go to the commercial produce market and ask for donations, much of the produce for the soup comes from that earlier activity.

I help carry the tubs and installed jugs filled with tea to the four or five cars in front on the house. Everyone prays for the success of the mission in the front courtyard and it begins to drizzle. Three groups will be going out, one on foot, and two in cars going to different sides of the cities down town. We pile into a Henrique’s car and shut the doors with five people in a compact Fiat, but for Brazil that is spacious. Viviane is in the lead car ahead of us, she is a Super Lego in the order. I make up that term but it is true. She has a daughter in the order, her son is a Lego, she is involved daily with many of the various events, missions, and plains; all this while running a hotel.     

It is a heavy rain now and the car is steamy beyond the capacity of the air conditioning. We drive to a commercial section of town that is shut down for the night.  Under the overhangs are a few sons and daughters up against the building fronts just out of the heavy spray of the rain on the sidewalks. We run out of the cars to a cluster of tents under the large corner awning. The smell of marihuana is thick and the tents sort of smolder.

“Oi, Oi!” We speak into the tents.

Clap, clap! Clap, Clap! Viviane claps in front of the tent. I smile at the ingenuity of solution, because knocking on a tent never has much of an effect - sound logic.

“We have food and drink for you if you would like?” She speaks around the shelters like a den mother.

I hear the zippers race and the first flap opens, a dark skinned shirtless man in his forties with spots of gray in this hair pokes his head out. His eyes are tired and red from a combination of smoke and lack of good sleep. “Eu quero,(I want)” he is hungry and comes out of this tent and stands with us. As our group speaks to him the others stir slower and come out of both his tent and the ones beside it. It is a large group and they eat and talk while the rain pounds the street. I watch closely without much understanding of the conversation, but I hear a request for prayer and we circle about the ring of tents. I hold the hand of the man who first got out of the tent. His hand is ruff and not quite cold I can feel under the calluses the veins are still trying to warm his skin; a hand worn from manual work that pays little and ages the body quickly. The prayer ends and he presses hard against my hand as if to punctuate the Amen. I turn to wish him a good night, and he blesses me in a raspy voice.

We drive on as the water in the street is already to the level of the sidewalks, because of the over filled gutters from the previous days rain. We turn on a street that pointing down a gradual hill. Sitting against the building is a man holding his knees in a seated fetal position. The rain is so steady it’s eating away at the dryness around him and soon will overtake the ground below him. We stop and get out, and he shuffles to greet us. Some in our two car load group embrace him and he smiles as I shake his hand. His hand is so cold, which is strange to me that with the temperature in the sixty that a body could feel like winter’s cold.

“Boa Noite!” I say.

He grins and turns to all the people talking with him. I catch words that suggest they are talking about me.

One of girls in the ground says to me, “His name is Gia.”

“Oi, Gia.” I see he has two hot dogs and a plastic cup of tea. His knees wobble and we help him to the ground. Someone has grabbed a piece of dry card board from the car, and set it under him. The food is warm, but as he eats his body begins to shake and his bare arms are clammy in the early stages of what could be hypothermia. The alcohol or drugs can no longer trick his body that he is warm, the shivers are like waves and he needs warmth.

In the rumble of the crowd I call out if anyone has clothes in the car. Tonight we don’t, most nights we would, but not tonight. From somewhere a brown button down shirt is draped over him. He is still cold, so Henrique holds his food, while our group mother Viviane and I put the shirt on him and button it up. I sit flat, wrap my right arm around him, and rub his arm with my left hand. The group of young adults and teens never stops talking to him and he is smiling at them.

Someone says,”Gia speaks English, French, Spanish, and Portuguese.”

Gia looks at me and says in English, “My name is Gia.” He laughs and the group laughs with him. “I can sing too.”

“Sing Gia!” Shouts the group.

He looks at me again and starts. “We are the world. We are the children. We are the one who can make a better day so let start living.”

His body is warmer now and I feel the iciness leaving his hands.

“Sing Sean! Cantor, Cantor, Sing!” (You need to be ready to sing at any time in Brazil, that should be on the Government website.)  

I feel my own goose bumps now as I give it a good Stevie Wonder try, “We are the world, yes we are the children, ohh -let’s make a better day – yahaaa - let’s start living-ing.”

In Brazil “We are the World” still plays often on the radio and in the streets. The teens know the song too and we sang it until Gia was thoroughly warm. In the shinning September mist and lamp lights of Downtown Valadares I knew I would never forget Gia and his welcome to Brazil.              

Henrique, his  Girl Friend, and Formando Weaverton 
 Viviane
 Inside of a Brazilian Hot Dog
 Henrigue
Our Small Group for the Night

Thursday, April 17, 2014

As I Depart Brazil I remember my friend Br. Gabriel


April 17, 2014

I have returned to Sao Paulo for the last week of my mission here in Brazil. In the last two months I have been somewhat out of contact with the United States. The houses of the Religious Brothers who I have stayed with did not have internet; it is strange to be online again. It has also been a long period of time without a new post and I am excited to continue talking about my experience in Brazil. I may return next week, but will continue write for whoever would like to hear about my mission until the I feel it is the proper time to let it stand.  

I spend the past month in Campo Grande, a city in the Metro of Rio de Janeiro. It was in the 80’s in Rio, but in Sao Paulo only six hours away by bus it is in the 60’s and rainy today, and it will hit the low 50’s tonight. It is fall here and that fits well with my memories of when my good friend Brother Gabriel and I parted for different locations last year in September. For me, the bittersweet mood of departing seems to be wrapped in the changes of weather, most often fall and spring. I feel the weather change again as I depart Brazil for the United States and it is me departing.

***

September 2014

It feels like a Sunday in fall. The wind is chilly, the sky is greyer than blue, and the color green in the trees is over shadow by the browns in the hills and the sandy banks along the Rio Doce. The familiar tones speak louder to me today, but it is spring here in Brazil. The threat of ran is in the air, and the river flows quicker as upstream the rains did come.

Last night brother Gabriel was scarce in the crowd that came to bless the chapel of the sisters. Normally a beacon in social functions he was a ghost free to appear any place at any time. He chose as most ghosts to be selective and scarce. I wasn’t even sure how he got to the Mass and party or even how he left.

I returned to the house with the van load of the brothers. It was stacked with amps and speaker sticks, a mixer, ornate candle sticks, and a matching alter cross. We unloaded the van in front of the bar crowd that sit perpetually under the metal roof that shoots out to the street. We wave, and they wave from the one dilapidated table that hugs the bricks of the fire that burns for evening heat. We unload the car into the into the store rooms that resided in their chapel. Unloading the van is complicated by their practice of removing footwear, normally sandals, because of weight for awkwardness of the items.

I walk upstairs to see Br. Gabriel finishing up the dishes from the lunch he prepared earlier in the day. He was at the tail finishing and I walked into the kitchen to greet him.

“Hello Brother.”

“Hello Sean,” his tone friendly but thoughtfully distant.

I saw that the door to the closest sized bathroom was half open. I looked in from across the room and noticed Paulo, a son from the street, was in there hiding. Paulo had started taking refuge in the bathroom earlier in the week and was becoming very obstinate about leaving – even to the point of muttering in angry drones. He saw me as I faked a cough to turn from his gaze. I turned back and he was still looking at me, so I smiled and he pointed to me and then motioned his thumb to his mouth, shaking his pinky in the air.  “Agua Paulo?” I speak loud and with diction. He shakes his head and points to me. “Oh, I need Agua, is that right Senior Paulo!” He acknowledges me and pushes his forehead into his folded arms.

I walk into the kitchen. Brother and I talk for a while about many things. I take full advantage to speak with him as he is leaving the house at 1:00 PM tomorrow and leaving me without a translator. It is not important at this time to give the specific of are conversation. He was returning to his home town to see his parents, family, and friends that he had not seen in five years. That is a long time to be away, and hometowns seem to never forget us as who we were before we left, and most often why we left. I could feel the deepness of his thoughts in his reflections over cleaning the dishes.

We also talked about the true reason I was on this journey. It was a continuation of previous talks, but I knew he was reaffirming the points that had marked my time thus far in Brazil. The greatest one to speak of was his answer when I asked him how to be silent and listen to God with patience in a busy world. His home town was on a beach and that was the metaphor he used to explain. (I suspend the need to quote directly from dialog)

“It is like the breakers and the waves at the shoreline. They are loud, fast, pulling, and pushing. You may never feel about to break out of that force, but on the other side is the peace; the peaceful place where God speaks to your heart. It is there all the time, even when you are in the hectic surf.”

I could see his eye lighten and that very peace manifest in his form, as he imaged that loving and quiet place.

“Thank you for being my guide for this leg of the journey Brother.” I embrace him and back away.

“You will see a lot in Brazil, but the real journey is not the culture or the language. It is a spiritual one for you. Only one part of this whole journey is Brazil.” He outlined a box shape on the counter top and pointed at areas in it. These are just parts,” he furrowed his brow at me as a question. “Parts?”

I nodded, “Pieces, pieces of a puzzle.”

“Yes, and you need to look out for them, and then you can arrange them.”

It was getting late and I paused in thought. “Boa Noite Brother. I will see you tomorrow.”

“Yes maybe.”

“Why are you planning to run out of here before I wake-up?”

He spoke in a not quite correct phase. “No, we will awaken you,” he paused and then laughed.

***

I awoke to the bell at eight in the morning. I was nice to sleep late with no mass until Sunday night. Already I could hear brother packing as he would walk up and down the stairs to gather things. I cracked the window and reflected on the day. It was a good Sunday morning panorama; the sun was breaking the clouds.

Tainia and Ana from the sister house arrived about 10:00 AM to deliverer an envelope. I walk down to the main level to greet them and the full kitchen of cooks. The smell coming from the kitchen is savory and oily. A lay associate named Andrea` orders the Formandos around in the kitchen, but he smiles in a playfully rye way. He is a round bellied and light featured young man standing beside Caio, who is thin, and 6’3.

In Tainia’s hand is a red flower. The flower is very tropical looking with four petals that start at the stem wide and thin to pointed hairs at the tips, from the middle of the flower are thee ruby red insect feeler like stamens poking up at a unified crook.

“Irmao Gabriel?” I point and she smiles and shakes her head yes.

So much of this house is buzzing and when Brother appears from packing he is playful and calm. I can see he is ready for the trip to the point he can relax a bit.

A few arrive to see brother and enjoy lunch. They are excited to have a yellow cola on the table that is native to Brazil, its tastes like ginger ale, but is made from a fruit only here call Guarana.  They have completed the lent of St. Michael the Arch Angel; it is like the lent before Easter only it takes place between August and September. This year those participating gave up soda, sweets, and candy. In addition, they prayed a devotion every evening in that forty days, and keep a status of the saint in their house.

The sun’s fight with the clouds is lost and it becomes very gray as we pray and begin eating a meal of baked pasta noodles mixed with lightly sautéed vegetables and potatoes. It now feels a little sad that Brother is leaving, but we laugh frequently as we sit on the ground eating. The Brazilians love to pick on each other and play jokes, but one favorite is pointing out if someone is too big, too tall, too fat, or their particular mannerisms. It seems that everyone takes and gives it, yet it is a bit juvenile and they do stop most of the time when someone turns red.

As we finish lunch, Brother Gabriel walks up the concrete steps and refuses the chocolate and fruit desert on the table that everyone is ripping apart. He trips and falls into the stairs, he pauses and starts to laugh. I can see he is no longer uneasy, just in the place in packing were you get clumsy and forgetful.

He returns wearing a backpack, and has a brown army like duffle bag santa claused over his shoulder. Everyone moves in for a hug and a goodbye as it will be five weeks before he returns to the house. Brother Gideao rushes us to the train station and cuts into traffic with our Volkswagen van like it was a motorcycle. We turn the corner of a street and I notice the brothers talking seriously in the front seat. The van turns back east and Br. Gideao jams the gas.

We are back at the house and he honks the horn and yells to Weaverton who comes down quickly. The van takes off as Weaverton is still standing blankly alongside. I asked what brother forgot. And everyone irrupts in to laughter. “What?” I say looking around.

Br. Gabriel turns with all of his travel money and paper work in his hands, “My tickets,” everyone laughs again.

We arrive as the train pulls into the station, I will never forget the sight of two Religious Brothers in the front seat of a VW van cutting off cars and honking around corners. We take one final picture with the group and we wish Br. Gabriel a good trip as he walks onto the platform for the train.

In all my time in Brazil, I have not been far from Br. Gabriel. He guided me in Sao Paulo, on a two fifteen hour trips, one on and train and one on a bus. He introduced me to Governador Valadares and to the great people who love him there. I watched him organize two large events for the church and youth, and together we missioned in a troubled remote town called Aimores. Yet it will always be Governador Valadares, a city he touched in many ways, which will miss him for the time he is gone in October, and when he leaves for another post in January 2014.

On this leg of my trip he kept me on track as my spiritual confidant, and my Portuguese professor. I will see him again, but not for months and I would like to say thank you personally.

“I can only attest to the grace of God that you welcome me to The Fraternity of Missionaries in Brazil. A guide and a friend whose words and example still helps me remember what a beautiful experience this has been for me. I will always be grateful.”

 The Dinning Room in Valadares
 Good Bye From Upstairs
 The ride with Tickets.
 The Train Station
Hugs Good Bye.